Exploring Cocoa Production in São Tomé: From Bean to Chocolate
São Tomé and Príncipe, often hailed as the "Chocolate Islands," have a rich heritage deeply intertwined with cocoa production. The cocoa plant (Theobroma cacao) thrives in the island's humid tropical climate, which offers ideal conditions for cocoa cultivation. These evergreen trees can grow up to 8 meters (26 feet) tall and produce large, football-shaped pods that house the precious cocoa beans. The broad leaves and vibrant pods make the cocoa tree a striking sight in São Tomé's lush landscapes.
Historical Significance:
Cocoa farming in São Tomé dates back to the late 19th century when Portuguese colonizers introduced cocoa plants to the islands. Over time, São Tomé and Príncipe became one of the leading cocoa producers globally, with cocoa becoming a cornerstone of the local economy. Despite various challenges, cocoa remains a significant agricultural product and source of livelihood for many local farmers.
Cultural and Economic Impact: Cocoa production is deeply embedded in the culture and economy of São Tomé. Many families have been involved in cocoa farming for generations, and it plays a vital role in communal and national identity. Efforts to promote sustainable and fair-trade practices ensure that cocoa farming can continue to thrive, benefiting local communities and preserving the island's rich heritage.
Challenges and Sustainability: Cocoa production faces challenges such as fluctuating global prices, climate change, and the need for sustainable farming practices. Programs focusing on organic farming, fair trade, and environmental conservation are essential to address these challenges and ensure the long-term viability of cocoa farming. By supporting these initiatives, São Tomé can continue to produce high-quality cocoa while protecting its natural resources.
In conclusion, cocoa production in São Tomé is a fascinating blend of tradition, culture, and meticulous craftsmanship. The journey from the cocoa tree to a bar of chocolate involves numerous steps that highlight the dedication and skill of local farmers. When visiting São Tomé, exploring the cocoa farms and tasting the locally produced chocolate offers a unique glimpse into the island's rich agricultural heritage and its sweet, aromatic bounty.
In 2000, a newly independent country faced a deep agricultural crisis. The government sought to revive cocoa farming by organizing producers into cooperatives. By 2005, cooperatives like SICA improved organic production and income for small farmers. Efforts boosted cocoa production from 67 tonnes in 2005 to over 1,000 tonnes by 2010. The commitment to fair trade and sustainable practices continues to enhance the livelihoods and professionalism of cocoa producers.
The cocoa production process
1. Cultivation and Harvesting: Cocoa trees take several years to mature and begin producing fruit. Farmers typically plant cocoa trees under the shade of taller trees to protect them from excessive sunlight. Once mature, the trees produce pods that change color as they ripen—ranging from green to yellow, orange, or red. Harvesting is a meticulous process; farmers use machetes to cut the ripe pods from the trees, taking care not to damage the pods or the trees.
2. Fermentation: After harvesting, the pods are split open, and the beans, surrounded by a sweet, mucilaginous pulp, are extracted. The beans are placed in wooden boxes or on banana leaves to ferment for about 5 to 7 days. This fermentation process is crucial as it develops the beans' flavor, reducing bitterness and enhancing their complex aromatic qualities. Fermentation also affects the final quality of the chocolate.
3. Drying: Post-fermentation, the beans are spread out in the sun to dry. This drying process can take several days and requires regular turning to ensure even drying. Properly dried beans improve storage quality and reduce the risk of mold or spoilage. Once dry, the beans are ready for the next stage of processing.
4. Roasting and Grinding: The dried beans are transported to processing facilities where they are roasted to further develop their flavor. Roasting is a critical step as it directly influences the chocolate's taste profile. After roasting, the beans are cracked and winnowed to separate the nibs from the shells. The nibs are then ground into cocoa mass, which can be separated into cocoa powder and cocoa butter.
5. Production of Chocolate: The cocoa mass is the primary ingredient for making chocolate. Depending on the type of chocolate being produced—dark, milk, or white—the cocoa mass is mixed with varying amounts of cocoa butter, sugar, and milk. The mixture undergoes several refining processes, including conching, which smoothens the texture and enhances the flavor. Finally, the chocolate is tempered and molded into bars or other forms.
Historic background of Cocoa plantations in Sao Tome
The Rise of Cocoa production in São Tomé
São Tomé and Príncipe, the small island nation off the western coast of Central Africa, has a rich history intertwined with cocoa production. The story of cocoa on these islands dates back to the late 19th century when Portuguese colonizers introduced the crop as part of their broader colonial agricultural expansion. By the early 20th century, cocoa had become the nation's dominant export, earning São Tomé the moniker "Ilhas do Cacau" or "Islands of Cocoa." Large Portuguese-owned plantations, known as "roças," exploited the labor of indentured workers, mostly from Angola, creating a system akin to servitude.
Labor and Ethical Controversies
During the early 20th century, these plantations became notorious for harsh labor conditions, drawing international condemnation. Reports of labor exploitation reached Europe, causing severe criticism and leading to the Cadbury-led boycott of São Toméan cocoa in 1909. This global outcry forced the Portuguese colonial administration to make legislative changes, though in reality, conditions on the plantations improved only marginally.
Post-Independence Challenges and Efforts
São Tomé gained its independence in 1975, but the transition from a colonial economy posed significant challenges. The state took control of former plantations, but mismanagement and lack of investment led to a decline in cocoa production. Additionally, the shift from monoculture to more diversified agriculture was necessary for sustainable development but difficult to achieve.
Revival Through Fair Trade
In the early 2000s, amid deep agricultural crises, the government and international organizations like IFAD sought to breathe new life into cocoa farming. Initiatives to organize local producers into cooperatives and promote organic and fair trade practices were launched. Cooperatives such as SICA emerged, fostering a community-driven approach and significantly improving the livelihoods of farmers.
Contemporary Cocoa Farming
Today, fair trade and sustainable practices have rejuvenated São Tomé's cocoa industry. Production has increased, offering better income and stable employment for local communities. The nation continues to strive towards professionalizing its cocoa farmers and ensuring that the industry remains a robust part of its economy.
Through its tumultuous history, cocoa production in São Tomé illustrates a journey from colonial exploitation to an era of fair trade, echoing the resilience and determination of its people.
Areas of Cocoa Production and Actors in São Tomé
Cocoa Value Chain:
- In 2017, São Tomé and Príncipe (STP) produced approximately 3,550 tons of cocoa, representing only 1/1000 of the world production (3 to 4 million tons per year).
- Cocoa is the main export product of the country, recognized for its high organoleptic quality, with 30% being classified as 'fine or flavor' cocoa.
- The cocoa value chain in STP consists of a diversified organizational structure, including small producers' cooperatives as well as medium and large private companies.
Geographical Distribution:
ocoa production on the island of São Tomé is concentrated in three main areas: the Centre-South, the Centre-North, and the North. Plantations cover approximately 25,000 hectares and are often intercropped with other plants like bananas, breadfruits, and mangoes.
Production Systems:
The country operates two primary production systems:
- Conventional Cocoa: Produced 2,488 tons in 2017, reliant on prices set by the New York Stock Exchange.
- Certified Cocoa: Produced 1,065 tons in 2017, includes organic, biological, or fair trade certifications.
Producers and Land Distribution:
The cocoa industry in São Tomé consists of:
- Small Producers: Approximately 7,600 small producers manage plots averaging 1.5 hectares each.
- Medium and Large Companies: There are 12 companies with land concessions ranging from hundreds to thousands of hectares.
Key Cooperatives:
Certified cocoa production is primarily driven by small producers organized into two main cooperatives:
- CECAB: Cooperative for the Export of Biological Cocoa.
- CECAQ11: Cooperative for the Export of Quality Cocoa. These cooperatives hold the certifications, not the individual producers.
Governance of the cocoa sector in Sao Tome
Ministry and Institutions: The cocoa value chain is primarily managed by the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development (MADR). The Centre for Agro-Technological Research (CIAT), affiliated with MADR, handles sanitary treatments and export certifications. The state's provision of services to producers (technical assistance, quality control, irrigation methods, advanced training, etc.) is currently weak.
Key Organisations:
- Chamber of Trade, Industry, Agriculture, and Services (CCIAS): Represents the national private sector.
- National Federation of Small Producers (FENAPA): Provides price monitoring assistance, mainly for producers not associated with cooperatives.
- Cooperatives CECAB and CECAQ11: Offer the main support to producers, although they exclude non-associated small producers.
The coordination between medium companies remains relatively weak due to their individual operational circuits. This structure reveals a need for better state support and improved coordination among cocoa value chain actors to ensure sustainable and resilient cocoa production in São Tomé.
Markets, Prices, and Certification of Cocoa products
Domestic Market:
The domestic market for cocoa products in São Tomé e Príncipe is minimal, accounting for less than 0.1% of total production. Local sales are primarily targeted at tourists and include products like chocolate, cocoa powder, biscuits, chocolate almonds, and dried bananas with chocolate, produced by about 10 small entrepreneurs.
Export Market:
Over 99% of São Tomé's cocoa production is exported, mostly by sea to EU countries. The cocoa is recognized as a high-quality niche product in the conventional market, especially for cocoa classified as fine or flavored, despite lacking a specific denomination of origin. It also caters to the certified cocoa market (organic, fair trade, etc.).
Pricing and Premiums:
Exporters typically declare a value at customs equal to the international price, which undervalues fair trade or organic cocoa since premiums are provided to producers. For those in fair trade cooperatives, the premium often takes the form of social benefits like schooling, roads improvement, and medicines. For organic cocoa, premiums are given as production inputs such as copper sulfate, lime, pruning services, work clothing, and construction of fences.
Economic Vulnerability:
Conventional cocoa production is vulnerable to international price fluctuations, which could critically affect the national economy if prices drop. Certified cocoa production, however, is less susceptible to price volatility, making organized small producers more resilient compared to conventional companies.